Predominantly working to incorporate 3D printing and scanning into 3D textiles, designer Ganit Goldstein‘s interest lies in the intersection between craft and technology. With a background at the Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design in Israel, Ganit is now studying an MA for Smart-Textile developments at the Royal Collage of Arts in London. She creates 3D printed jewelry, fashion and shoes collections that have been displayed at New York Textile Month, Asian Art Musuem – San Francisco, Holon Design Museum, Munich jewelry week and Milan Design Week.
Can you tell us a bit about your background and what led you into the fashion design field?
I have always been sewing, sketching, folding, and trying different methods of textile manipulation. Back in high school when my project consisted of dresses made from broken glass and metal wires, I was excited to mix the borders between art and fashion. I was looking at garments as a platform to make art pieces that aren’t necessarily meant to be worn, but rather a manifestation of aesthetics, culture, language, and design.
During my studies, I have often incorporated tools from other disciplines into my work, whether it is CNC machine, laser cutting, 3D scanning and 3D printing. The use of different tools and mindsets helped me discover my own designing language, picking up my own tools within the fashion design field.
Can you briefly explain your design process?
My working process consist of backward and forward methods – from Analog to Digital working processes. I start with computer software, and then I follow with textile developments – prototyping my ideas to reality. My working methods can also go the opposite way, starting with handmade methods, and translating them into new technology.
"My home became my own printing lab, where I got to experience, try-out materials and use the good old 'trial and error' method."
What made you choose 3D printing for your designs?
The freedom of design and fast prototyping, that is to draw a new path of innovation by breaking the boundaries of new manufacturing processes. Recently, 3D printing is giving us the ability to customize design.
When I started using 3D printing, I decided to design and create a 3D lace of our times, based on algorithms, printed with hard and flexible materials at the same time. This is when I discovered the huge potential of using algorithms, software and parametric design.
Ganit Goldstein in collaboration with Stratasys. Photo by Michael Tzur.
Where do you get your inspiration from?
I get inspiration both from the traditional working methods such as weaving techniques and textile manipulations, and the digital manufacturing methods such as parametric architecture and ‘smart textile’. The combination of these two worlds mimic nature behavior, which is another source of inspiration.
Sustainability is a key part of your designs. How do you think this can be incorporated by big fashion brands?
One of the aspects that could make a huge impact on the fashion world is the shift from mass production to customized fashion designs. This means that the production of a garment will be on demand and produced for a specific need without any waste.
What are some of your favorite projects that you have worked on?
The first 3D printed multi-color shoes that I made in collaboration with Stratasys is one of my favorite project. The aim was to create a fabric-like texture inside the printing process. I couldn’t hope for better results. The shoes were presented in exhibitions worldwide (the last exhibition was in Milan Design Week 2019). Most of people I have met during the exhibitions were sure the shoes were made from fabric and not by 3D printing. The shoes are now part of the Holon Design Museum permanent collection.
Another exciting project was the one in collaboration with Intel ‘RealSense’ studio in Jerusalem. We incorporated their technology into the design process by 3D scanning an entire body, thus allowing to create customized fashion and accessories, designed for a specific person. We also launched together an AR App that demonstrates the 3D printing process using a hologram.
What is the most challenging aspect of your work?
The most challenging part is the production processes, a mixture between digital and analog techniques. The combination of crafts methods does not always fit to the technology and viceversa.
Do you have any upcoming projects or collaborations that you can tell our readers about?
I’ve been working on a new collection – ‘Designers in Residency’ at Emma Creative Center, Pforzheim – a project that combines 3D printed with textiles and also wearable shoes. This project was on display at the Dutch Design Week in Eindhoven from October 19th to October 27th and will be also part of the Reshape competition forum in Barcelona where I’ve been selected as finalist.
What advice do you have for young and aspiring designers?
Always go as far as you can with your dreams. Don’t be afraid of failures. Even though sometimes it seems that things are not working as you wish – those tryouts and ‘mistakes’ are the keys for improvement. Be open minded to challenge yourself, be a ‘Maker’ and build your own path in the design world.